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| General Discussion (Everything Else) Discuss anything that doesn't belong in any other forums here. |
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#21
06-29-2010, 01:02 PM
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#22
06-29-2010, 01:04 PM
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#23
06-29-2010, 01:57 PM
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#26
06-29-2010, 04:11 PM
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#27
06-29-2010, 04:17 PM
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"Here Lies Salty...Biggest OU Homer ever"
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#29
08-06-2010, 07:39 PM
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OK....we're ready. 1850 sq. feet. I got a price of $3.00 psf to bust, remove, form and re-pour the driveway, and, where there is no slab...$1.50 psf to form and pour. This is labor only. I will have to buy the wire, visqueen, concrete and any dirt needed. The dood comes highly recommended and I have seen his work. How much for the concrete? My wife is buggin' me for at least a ballpark figger.
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#30
08-06-2010, 08:01 PM
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100/ yd
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#31
08-06-2010, 08:06 PM
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thats a good price, you don't need no stinking wire if you use fiberglass concrete. And if the slab is out in the open you don't need no stinking vizqueen either
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#33
08-06-2010, 10:17 PM
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What's this 100 yard crap?
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#34
08-06-2010, 10:21 PM
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[QUOTE=Salty;184647]No semis due to insurance purposes. Plus, I'd have to bury some cables 'cause they can't get under. The dude said 3 1/2" would be cool but with 4000# mix. My boat slab was poured with 3000# mix and hasn't cracked yet.
What's this 100 yard crap?[/QUOTE] It means bust out some mooolaaa..... 
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#35
08-06-2010, 10:24 PM
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[quote=Bluechip;184649]
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 He must mean $100 a yard. Ain't no way it takes 100 yards.
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#36
08-06-2010, 10:25 PM
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In Lake Charles it think it is a little cheeper....maybe ~ $ 90 per yard. If you are digging up the driveway out to the street.....make sure ALL the driveway is dug out to 3.5". I have seen many driveways "skimp" on the thickness next to the road and where a drainage pipe crosses under the driveway. IMO.....the driveway should be "flaired" where it connects to the road. This makes it easier when turning into the driveway.
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#38
08-06-2010, 11:11 PM
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#39
08-06-2010, 11:19 PM
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make sure you tell them you want fiber mesh in the concrete. if you tell them fiberglass they will know you don't know what you are talking about, then they will send the trucks to you light. meaning if you order 5 yards they will only send you 4 or 4.5 cause they will not think you know what you are talking about. when you call for that extra yard you will find out that there is a 3 yard minimum. thats how they get ya. so don't let them know that you don't know nothing about it.
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#40
08-07-2010, 12:07 AM
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525 cu ft / 27 cu ft per yd = 19.44 yards of concrete. Ordering 20 yards of concrete and you could end up just a little short.....depending on your measurements. What mix.....I would go with at least 3500#. But ask them what is the price difference, 4000# may only cost a little more. I would only use 3000# concrete where it will have very light load. Such as a patio or slab to put a small storage building on. I was at work when my drive was poured and I ended up having 2 spots where after a rain, there is little [1' x 2'] water ~ 1/8" deep. It is not much, but it does create a slick spot. IMO....it would be much better to have a crown in the center or sloping to one side on the concrete to be sure it drains well. Concrete takes a long time before it is "strong". The concrete, under ideal conditions, should "cure" slowly. Most of the curing [or drying] process takes place in the first few days and has about 70 % (if I remember correctly) of it's strength after ~7 days. After about a month, it has ~ 90 % of it's strength. 20 years later it is still getting stronger. These number could be off some.....can anyone correct me? To slowly cure.....espically when it is 95 deg outside and the sun shinning on the concrete....it would be good to keep the concete surface wet for the first 24 to 48 hours. This is not required...just good to do and may help delay any cracking in the driveway. I said....Delay....because some cacking is inevitable. I have seen driveways covered with visqueen (sp?) to hole in the moisture to slow down the curing process. Last edited by Gerald; 08-07-2010 at 12:19 AM.
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