Chalky Gel Coat

[Slidellkid]

My boat's gel coat is getting a little chalky. What is the best product to bring it back to life. It's not bad at all, but it probably needs a little more than a regular wash.

[Jordan]

wax.........3-5 times.

[latravcha]

Originally Posted by Jordan

wax.........3-5 times.

X2

Use a good wax such as collinite 925
Depending on how bad your oxidation is getting you can use presta cutting creme and ultra polish.
Some people swear by the star brite marine polish but I don’t care for. Yes it is really easy to use but it does not last.
The most important thing to keep in mind is you must keep wax on the boat if you don’t want it to oxidize.
If you want to read for days do a search on THT for best marine wax.

[Slidellkid]

Thanks

[bayouchub]

What kind of boat is it?

[kt9089]

Compound it with high gloss gel coat compound then I use rejex instead of wax. It is easier to apply and lasts longer.

[wed68]

Sometimes it takes a good wet sand and buff. I have brought three boats back to a good Zune in the last year like this. Wet sand, buff with wool pad and compound, wax with a good carnuba wax .

[latravcha]

Originally Posted by wed68

Sometimes it takes a good wet sand and buff. I have brought three boats back to a good Zune in the last year like this. Wet sand, buff with wool pad and compound, wax with a good carnuba wax .

Yep depends on how bad it is. A good wet sand with progressively finer paper can work wonders.

[Slidellkid]

It's not really bad at all, just a little chalky.

It's a Caracal. Most folks of probably never seen one as they are no longer made. It's a cat hull that is 19 feet. It's a great boat for both light offshore and inside. I have a 115 Suzuki on it.

[mtm109]

I had a problem with a boat but it was in the in the fiberglass and nothing helped. I read a thread and a guy mentioned putting vasoline and rubbing it in. It penetrates the fiberglass then you rub off the excess, then wax the boat. It worked like a charm and saved a lot of elbow grease.

[newguy]

wash with soap (dawn professional from sams/walmart/etc.works great and is cheap) then clean with star brite brand non slip deck cleaner (walmart,academy sports,) then dual action polisher with a wool bonnet, ~$40 @ harbor freight unless you want the super high end Flex (very high quality shelf tool) and use 3M marine compound (green writing on label) which can be found at most auto parts stores or walmart. after it is nice and glossy use rejex as stated earlier, it is far superior to any wax. The polisher and compound will make your gelcoat look brand new and rejex or any high quality sealant will make it last. Although I've personally never used it or seen it's results first hand, Ive heard that "Nu Finish", the cheap **** in the orange tin is supposed to be awesome for fiberglass/gelcoat.***forgot to mention, most people that try compound and polish by hand often report that the products did not work and had to either bring to shop or wetsand ($$$$$). They are right, in MOST cases, the compound will NOT work by hand even though the label states hand use is acceptable, this is marketing BS. The majority of compounds and polishes are designed to be used with a machine. That being said, even if you bought top of the line machine and compounds and polishes, you are still spending far less than bring it to a shop. Not knocking shops, just saying that in most cases, most people can fix the majority of oxidation type issues on their oown, but it does take time. The other side of this coin is if you dont want to spend the time to use the machine and compound/polishes/sealants correctly, then bring it to a reputable shop and let a pro do it, this is a very time consuming task.

[JDd]

Originally Posted by newguy

wash with soap (dawn professional from sams/walmart/etc.works great and is cheap) then clean with star brite brand non slip deck cleaner (walmart,academy sports,) then dual action polisher with a wool bonnet, ~$40 @ harbor freight unless you want the super high end Flex (very high quality shelf tool) and use 3M marine compound (green writing on label) which can be found at most auto parts stores or walmart. after it is nice and glossy use rejex as stated earlier, it is far superior to any wax. The polisher and compound will make your gelcoat look brand new and rejex or any high quality sealant will make it last. Although I've personally never used it or seen it's results first hand, Ive heard that "Nu Finish", the cheap **** in the orange tin is supposed to be awesome for fiberglass/gelcoat.***forgot to mention, most people that try compound and polish by hand often report that the products did not work and had to either bring to shop or wetsand ($$$$$). They are right, in MOST cases, the compound will NOT work by hand even though the label states hand use is acceptable, this is marketing BS. The majority of compounds and polishes are designed to be used with a machine.

Exactly what I do.
Harbor Freight polisher and a big wool pad.
3M Color Restorer and Wax
And a coat of Rejex.

A high speed polisher is a must.

[Basscat1]

Check out www.protecproducts.com these products have worked wonders for years. They were developed in Kenner, La. due to the harsh environment there.

[specknation]

Originally Posted by Basscat1

Check out www.protecproducts.com these products have worked wonders for years. They were developed in Kenner, La. due to the harsh environment there.

What makes Kenner's environment so harsh??

[newguy]

Originally Posted by JDd

Exactly what I do.
Harbor Freight polisher and a big wool pad.
3M Color Restorer and Wax
And a coat of Rejex.

A high speed polisher is a must.

this is a 100% proven cant go wrong, get excellent results formula.
hint..hint..

[Natural Light Kid]

Originally Posted by newguy

wash with soap (dawn professional from sams/walmart/etc.works great and is cheap) then clean with star brite brand non slip deck cleaner (walmart,academy sports,) then dual action polisher with a wool bonnet, ~$40 @ harbor freight unless you want the super high end Flex (very high quality shelf tool) and use 3M marine compound (green writing on label) which can be found at most auto parts stores or walmart. after it is nice and glossy use rejex as stated earlier, it is far superior to any wax. The polisher and compound will make your gelcoat look brand new and rejex or any high quality sealant will make it last. Although I've personally never used it or seen it's results first hand, Ive heard that "Nu Finish", the cheap **** in the orange tin is supposed to be awesome for fiberglass/gelcoat.***forgot to mention, most people that try compound and polish by hand often report that the products did not work and had to either bring to shop or wetsand ($$$$$). They are right, in MOST cases, the compound will NOT work by hand even though the label states hand use is acceptable, this is marketing BS. The majority of compounds and polishes are designed to be used with a machine. That being said, even if you bought top of the line machine and compounds and polishes, you are still spending far less than bring it to a shop. Not knocking shops, just saying that in most cases, most people can fix the majority of oxidation type issues on their oown, but it does take time. The other side of this coin is if you dont want to spend the time to use the machine and compound/polishes/sealants correctly, then bring it to a reputable shop and let a pro do it, this is a very time consuming task.

Do you do the whole boat with the star brite non skid deck cleaner or just the floor? Do you compound and rejex the floor too? Please share tips on using a dual action polisher. I've never used one.

[JDd]

Originally Posted by Natural Light Kid

Do you do the whole boat with the star brite non skid deck cleaner or just the floor? Do you compound and rejex the floor too? Please share tips on using a dual action polisher. I've never used one.

You can use the Star Brite anywhere. It will remove wax though.

What kind of nonskid do you have? If it's the moulded diamond pattern then you can compound and wax. You can't with the painted on nonskid. Do Not put Rejex on the nonskid.

For nonskid I use Woody Wax.

I smear on the 3M compound/wax with and old sock. Then use the polisher on a moderately low speed and keep the buffer moving until all he dried wax is buffed off.

I work in 2' wide sections from rub rail to chine.

[Natural Light Kid]

Mine's the molded diamond pattern. What kind of polisher is necessary? Does it have to be dual action or can it be one of the cheaper ones like this, or some where in between? Also do you use foam, wool, etc.?

[Doliver]

Buff with 3m cleaner restorer (found at acadamey) then use a good cununba wax I use mothers comes out good

[Salty]

Better be careful usin' a buffer. If you don't know what you're doin'...you're liable to burn swirls into the finish. Really looks like crap then.