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-   -   Fluorocarbon Q's (http://www.saltycajun.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63349)

Chumdumpster 03-03-2016 02:43 PM

Fluorocarbon Q's
 
OK guys. I'm a big braid user but I need to get some fluorocarbon in my life. No I'm not tying leaders, or using mono. Im looking for something that i can cast. I need tips on which fluorocarbon brand/ lb test to use, best knots, and tips, tricks to keep that springy stuff in check. Thanks.

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sledgehammer 03-03-2016 03:24 PM

What applications are you looking to do with it


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coachlp2 03-03-2016 03:43 PM

Look up the Eugene Bend Knot. It makes a 'pop' when you tie it correctly, and otherwise it breaks. I've never had a knot fail with fluorocarbon using that not. It's been the only one I've used with fluorocarbon since. I use 8 lb on spinning reels with Blakemore's Reel Magic sprayed on it. Baitcasting I use 12 -15. I would use bigger for flipping but braid is just cheaper.

Chumdumpster 03-03-2016 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sledgehammer (Post 788492)
What applications are you looking to do with it


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Plastics and crank baits. Maybe spinners? Just need to add a little something to my bassin game.

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Chumdumpster 03-03-2016 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coachlp2 (Post 788493)
Look up the Eugene Bend Knot. It makes a 'pop' when you tie it correctly, and otherwise it breaks. I've never had a knot fail with fluorocarbon using that not. It's been the only one I've used with fluorocarbon since. I use 8 lb on spinning reels with Blakemore's Reel Magic sprayed on it. Baitcasting I use 12 -15. I would use bigger for flipping but braid is just cheaper.

Do you use any kind of conditioner on casting gear? Thanks for the info. What brand fluorocarbon do you use?

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sledgehammer 03-03-2016 05:58 PM

I use Berkeley vanish 20 lbs for flipping an 14 for other applications an use polymor knot for all


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latex 03-03-2016 07:13 PM

Make sure what ever knot you use wet the line before you pull it tight.

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C-Bass2mouth 03-03-2016 07:33 PM

Fluoro is not going to cast as good as mono, conditioners will help though. Any bait you want to float (topwater) or keep higher in the water column (maybe you wanted to keep a jerkbait or crank bait from running as deep), you wouldn't want to use fluoro. Fluoro sinks, mono & braid will float more. For example a lot of people will throw a C-rig with fluoro as their mainline, and mono as their leader material because it will float the bait behind the sinker more than a fluoro leader.

With that said it usually goes like this:
Fluoro doesn't stretch like mono, so you'll get better hook sets on long casts.
The same diameter fluoro will run deeper than mono with the same crank bait.
The smaller diameter fluoro will run a bait deeper than a larger diameter.
Fluoro is less visible than mono
You can do everything possible, but you're still going to have some line management issues with fluoro. Even more so on spinning gear. How you spool it up is crucial

As far as brands I usually go with Seagaur red label. 100% because it's cheaper than others lol. I like the vicious also for the price. However I bought a spool of 8# & 10# FC Sniper last year for leader material for my spinning gear, and that stuff has WAY more forgiveness (not as stiff and wire feeling) than the other brands I tried. Not sure if it's because it was lighter line than what I use in the other brands or if it's just a better line.

As far as knots the palomar works fine. For braid to fluoro the Alberto knot is the bee's knees.

I do feel like I get more bites in clear water since I've started using fluoro. Especially on spinning gear.

The only things I wont use fluoro with are: Any topwater walking/popper style plug (mono, or braid with mono leader), Frogs (straight braid 65#), buzzbait/ribbit (straight braid 65#), & C-rig leader material (12-17#mono).

I will throw fluoro exclusively on: Spinnerbait/swim jig (12-17#), traps/crankbaits (10-15# depending on depth), Texas rig (12-17#), and sometimes if the water is clear I'll even flip and punch grass with heavy fluoro (20-25#).

If you take one thing from any of this take this. RE-TIE, RE-TIE, RE-TIE. It is more abrasion resistant than mono but if you do knick it, it will break. Also, with less memory more pressure gets put on the knot. I kick myself all the time for not doing it as often as I should, but it's a great practice to start doing. Cut a few feet up too, not just cut an inch up and re-tie.

bayouchub 03-03-2016 09:57 PM

Sunline or toray are the best fluoros you can use. I have some reels that have been spooled for over a year and line still feels new. You get what you pay for in fluorocarbon.

Chumdumpster 03-03-2016 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bayouchub (Post 788512)
Sunline or toray are the best fluoros you can use. I have some reels that have been spooled for over a year and line still feels new. You get what you pay for in fluorocarbon.

I just picked up some fc sniper.

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bayouchub 03-03-2016 10:46 PM

Sniper is good. If you like it try the shooter or toray superhard upgrade. You can find it on sale sometimes at thehookup or tacklewarehouse

funkyflemmons 03-04-2016 09:56 AM

I started flipping with 20 pound Berkley vanish and seems like I couldn't jam the hook in a decent fish, just switched back to braid and tying a leader, even in muddy water I find that you get more bites on fluro when flipping

bayouchub 03-04-2016 11:45 AM

Vanish is about the lowest quality fluoro made. Its fine for leaders but a nightmare to use straight.

coachlp2 03-04-2016 11:53 AM

I use Vicious for baitcasting and leaders. Seaguar Red Label or Sufix for spinning...I use conditioner on everything non-braid, including mono. Like someone said earlier, check often and retie.

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